Return to Rainy Daejeon

Why return to Daejeon? There's more to experience there than you'd think. ..

I needed a break. My boyfriend is on a mission to visit every province before we leave Korea in late August, and I am always up to get out of hot, humid Seoul on the weekend. So, we hopped on the Saemul this past Saturday and headed to Daejeon (or Taejeon-depending on your transliteration). He'd never seen it. We stashed our stuff in a locker, and hopped on the subway. We explored around town a little bit, and I noticed several large churches and a big store selling Christian merchandise. Later, I saw signs for Korea's Baptist Theological Seminary, which is apparently located in Daejeon. We also saw a a lot of ads for various research centers and universities. Daejeon is known for research and development and has been called "the Silicon Valley of Korea" in the media. Daejeon has a sizable population, but compared to the breadth and international flair of Seoul, Daejeon can start to feel more like a big town than a city. But, it's an an interesting town, anyway.

It was too rainy to hike, so we headed over to the park and the National Science Museum. Since the EXPO was held in Daejeon in the 90s, the city set aside some nice parks and outdoor pavilion areas. The National Science Museum has several sections, some are more hands-on, and seem better geared towards children. Then some areas are newer and geared more towards adults. The planetarium was cool, and of course had a display about the Korean female astronaut. There even seemed to be a class going on in a "learning center" (could it be a a museum hagwon?) inside one section of the museum. We were quite the hit with the throng of children we met in the center of the museum. I get the feeling that men with shaved heads aren't common there (there are fewer US military personnel near there) -as several of the younger kids became very curious and or freaked out that my boyfriend has no hair on his head. I really liked the very cool steel scupltures outside (see photos above), they dominated over the museum entrance...towering above you like animal warriors mixed with Transformers.

My boyfriend wanted to take a city bus tour to get the lay of the land. Since it seemed preferable to tromping around in the rain, I agreed. For only W2,000 (like $2 USD) we saw the touristy highlights of Daejeon. The tour took us to several small museums which seemed recently built (the small Korean Heritage museum seemed brand new and every exhibit was well translated) . At the currency museum, which was not as boring as the name implies, I learned that the ancientChinese were the first to use paper money. Ancient China really was quite remarkable-I have to say. They are up there with the ancient Egyptians as innovators, in my book. There was also a small but interesting display of money from the Japanese colonial period. There was one understated plaque on the wall mentioning the "confusion" of the Japanese occupation-the Japanese were printing their own currency in Korea, but a few Korean nationalists and intellectuals were refusing to recognize it or utilize it. They continued to try to use the older, Korean money. Even then, money and politics walked hand and hand.

On the bus tour, we met a nice Korean guy who was a volunteer guide for the disabled. He was leading several disabled young people around the city on the tour. (The tour was a good choice for a small group of youths with motor delays on a rainy day, as the tour bus could take them close to the museum entrance and cut out extra walking.) The young people in this group seemed fascinated by us. They asked us a lot of questions (via their guides' translations) and laughed at our answers. Their guide impressed me. He looked about 23. He said that he'd never studied English, but had worked hard to learn a little bit from the media and from a Canadian ex-pat friend. His speaking fluency was much better than that of some of the homeroom teachers whom I know. I think it was because he was confident and curious. His grammar was not perfect, but he always got his point across. He told us about his city, the good and bad neighborhoods, and his family (he was less helpful about places to get a good meal). He told us stories of his army days. As he had just finished his mandatory army service with the police force, he had interesting things to say about the recent beef protests. He talked about working for days at a time without sleep-if the protests went on all night-he and his fellow police recruits worked all night. He said that some people said mean things to the young police recruits, and a few men tried to push them or spit on them. However, many families smiled at the young policemen , thanked them, sand gave them rice cakes and candy. Upon completion of his mandatory service, he decided not to continue with a career in law enforcement. He was looking for a job in another field. Sweet guy.

Now, another great part of tour buses in Korea are the sound systems. Like most of the tour buses I've taken at teacher trainings, this bus also had a noribang (karioke) machine and small monitor. While waiting for some slow going members of the tour, the driver started singing. It was funny when the bus driver asked my boyfriend and I to sing, because Steve will rarely consent to singing in public! Usually I really need to relax with a few beers first...:) In fact, Steve turned about three shades of crimson while holding the mic. It was too early in the day for Queen, so we picked an easy song and sang Ben E. King's Stand By Me. In general, my boyfriend tends to prefer organized tours, and during a longer visit to a new city, I tend to prefer to explore on my own...but for a brief visit I do see the value of a tour.

After the tour, we checked into our hotel in the Yosung district. I was excited to go to the spa, but by then it was late and my tummy was growling. I was craving galbi, but unsure of a good place to get some that wasn't too fatty. No one on the bus tour had offered any good restaurant suggestions. So we walked around for a while, and found a mellow place for "fusion" food and beer.

On Sunday, the weather still wasn't dry enough for a pleasant hike (and the trails would have been muddy). So, we opted for a lazy morning at the spa. Praise God. We went to the spa at the Riviera Hotel. It cost 12,000, but that's where we are staying (Steve splurged, we were living it up! ) so we got in for 6,000. It is newer and cleaner and more modern in layout than the spa at the yusoung spa hotel next door, which I visited last year. The best part of it was that on a misty Sunday morning it was almost completely empty! Woohoo! :) I enjoyed all the relaxation of the spa experience without having to be naked in front of too many skinny, less hairy Korean chicks! A win-win all around, I think. :) I also recommend the saunas at the Riviera spa. There is an herb sauna, a sage sauna, and a "Finland Sauna" (I know that Finland is not an adjective, but, hey, they tried). The herb sauna intrigued me, but the air was so, so pungent in there, as if the entire Crabtree and Evelyn shop at the mall has exploded in your face, that I could barely get in the door. Not happening. So, I enjoyed the Finland sauna instead. I liked it because it wasn't too small and cramped (small, overly heated saunas have a coffin-like feel, if you ask me) , and the temperature was posted on a digital sign above the door, so I knew what to expect inside. The famed hot spring waters of the yusoung hot springs followed. I had my choice of three tubs, cold, hot and bubbly, and uncomfortably hot. I have heard people say that the hot spring water improves your circulation and is good for your skin, I don't know about the truth in any that but it can soothe a ragged spirit. It was extra wonderful to have the tubs more or less to myself! :)

We were so relaxed that after our separate male/female spa experiences we took an extra nap together in our room. Laziness rules! :) The patience demanded by the end of the school year can sometimes really drain me (patience may be a virtue, but it's one I don't have!). Myself, I have wondered if the universe really intended children to attend school when it is ninety degrees or more? Can they actually retain anything in this heat? But I digress again.... My point is that I needed to rest and recoup. And a relaxing sauna followed by a hot, bubbling tub of hot spring water helped me do so. :)

Then we hopped a swift KTX and were back in the steamy city in no time....